Queer Farmers Are Altering the Panorama

When Lee Hennessy talks about farming, he talks about selecting happiness. For years he had been dwelling in LA, working in media and Hollywood and promoting, hating it however figuring pleasure would come as soon as he grew to become profitable sufficient. However someday, he simply couldn’t anymore: “I used to be depressing. So, ultimately, I used to be like, ‘What if I targeted on happiness first, after which fearful about success afterwards?’” He at all times liked animals, and the concept of farming. So he put all his cash into studying about agriculture, labored on some farms, after which began his personal: Moxie Ridge Farm in Washington County, New York.

One alternative towards happiness often begets one other. When Hennessy, a trans man, began farming, he says “it was me, on my own, with my animals… and it took a yr and a half or two years of that silence, and that work, and determining who I’m for me to be in a spot the place I felt protected sufficient to even understand that I used to be trans.” Queerness and farming “are very a lot linked for me when it comes to who I’m and my expertise.”

Regardless of Rush Limbaugh’s 2016 threats that lesbian farmers are coming for your towns, most straight individuals, and even some queer individuals, don’t affiliate queerness with an agricultural life. This isn’t as a result of queer individuals have not been part of rural life for generations, however due to a binary of pictures. On one hand you may have a prevalent affiliation of the American farmer as a white, cis, conservative, heterosexual man clad in denim and driving a tractor. On the opposite you may have the narrative for queerness in America, as advised by media and many individuals who’ve lived it, as one among popping out and shifting to a metropolis to search out your group away from the judgment of conservative, rural life. However like most binaries, the binary between a life on the land and a queer one is fake.

Throughout the nation, queer people are farming. They’re preserving bees and milking goats, accumulating eggs and educating others how one can develop meals in their very own yards. For some, it’s an train in queer activism, and for others, it is only one extra solution to dwell. However throughout the board, queer farmers are difficult not simply standard farming and meals manufacturing practices, however the picture of farming itself. Alongside the best way, they’re discovering that farming can even change their very own perceptions about what it means to be queer.


No matter the way you look, there may be an assumption that one should develop up farming in an effort to be a farmer. Which isn’t true for a lot of queer farmers. Ang Roell, beekeeper and founding father of They Keep Bees, grew up in Queens, New York, their solely expertise with farming being a highschool job on the Queens County Farm Museum. However an early love for nature led them to check environmental schooling in Boston and work on city farming initiatives. That’s once they found bees. “I actually linked to the work and the stewarding, it simply was very completely different from among the different works that I’ve been doing, which is usually targeted on crops and bushes. So it’s form of bridged for me, stewarding with animals and in addition working in a discipline, in an agricultural pursuit.” Now, They Maintain Bees sells uncooked honey and beeswax, starter hives, and affords consults to these excited by beekeeping on their very own.

Christina Bouza, co-founder and director of Finca Morada, an academic city farm in North Miami, and Grow Roots Miami, a meals justice collaboration that builds free food-producing gardens, got here to farming by the restaurant world. They co-founded Cubana Social, a restaurant and venue in Bushwick, Brooklyn, and mentioned “it was deep inside this mission that I realized firsthand in regards to the injustices and failures of our meals system.” Their curiosity in various ecosystems and sustainability grew, and in 2016, after the lease was up on the restaurant, they attended the Black & Latinx Farmer Immersion Program at Soul Fire Farm in upstate New York. It was “precisely the catalyst I wanted to shift my focus and my choices from the capitalist system to land-based ecosystems, make extra of an influence in dismantling racism in our meals system, and [help] queer and BIPOC [Black, Indigenous, and people of color] of us re-connect to nature, our birthright.”

Amara Ullauri additionally obtained their begin on academic, non-profit farms in Brooklyn, however that work instantly linked them to their roots. They got here to the U.S. with their mother and father once they had been 5, however most of their household harvests cacao and citrus on the southern coast of the Andes. “I keep in mind sitting on this Latin American Historical past class [in college], and it hit me that in an effort to tackle the historical past of colonization and in addition my family’s intergenerational trauma that’s tied to land work… I wanted to proceed that work.” Now, they’re a program director at Rock Steady Farm, a queer-owned cooperative farm in New York’s Dutchess County. “I knew that it was essential for my very own studying and for my very own survival and sustenance that I wanted to do that work with folks who had been sharing comparable identities and values and queerness.”

Photo collage of two goats, a bottle of milk, jar of honey, egg, and carrots.

Nevertheless, for different queer farmers, the pursuit of farming was about chasing a dream that didn’t essentially must do with queerness, however was influenced by all of it the identical. Shae Pesek and Anna Hankins personal and function Over the Moon farm in northeast Iowa, which produces all the pieces from eggs to meat to a flower CSA, and which is hooked up to Pesek’s household’s extra standard farm. She had at all times had a love for agriculture, taking part in 4H and FFA (Future Farmers of America), however went to school in San Diego as a result of, she figured, that’s what you probably did for those who had been homosexual. “I got here out [in San Diego] and I actually didn’t understand that there was essentially a spot for queer adults in agriculture,” she mentioned. “It was simply not one thing that I had seen. Most individuals that had been queer that I knew moved to cities and I assumed that that might be the trail for me as properly.”

However she missed her mother and father’ farm, so she moved again, which is the place she met Hankins. Hankins studied agriculture in school and labored in meals and agriculture activism networks, and he or she too didn’t see a future in metropolis life. “I needed to be someplace rural and the place I needed to really pursue rising for individuals and for the group,” she mentioned. Over the Moon got here out of that shared need to guide a rural life and to carry a extra holistic method to farming, which in some ways, is a queer need — the drive to pursue what fulfills you, even when it’s not thought of the norm.

Queerness helps outline what number of of those farmers method farming and meals work. Queerness is “how I relate to others and to the lands in a manner that’s actively difficult normalized relationships which have been imposed by colonization and capitalism,” says Ullauri. For Bouza, that work can be the work of historical past. They observe how, whatever the pervasive picture of the white farmer, a lot of the farming on this nation traditionally has been completed by enslaved individuals from Africa, on land that was beforehand managed by Native People. “In lots of different locations and instances, land managers have traditionally been ladies and two-spirited/nonbinary of us,” they mentioned. “The ancestors of queer, nonbinary, ladies, Black, individuals of shade had been farmers, growers, plant nurturers; they had been land shepherds, they had been in reciprocal relationship with land and nature.” There’s additionally an extended historical past of queer individuals looking for self sufficiency on farms and rural dwelling areas, such because the Womyn’s Land lesbian separatists of the Nineteen Seventies.

The drive towards self sufficiency is what pulled Courtney Skeeba and her spouse to discovered Homestead Ranch in Kansas. After making an effort to provide most of what they consumed, they realized “we grew and produced extra that we might eat, and moderately than waste the surplus, it appeared essential to share.” They produce all method of meat, cheese, and produce, in addition to soaps and lotions created from goat milk. And whereas Skeeba sees queerness as one thing that may create a shared expertise inside a heteronormative tradition, it’s sufficient to simply be queer and run the farm. “I see farming as an equalizer,” she mentioned. “We as people should eat; producing that meals isn’t any completely different from one individual to the following. On the finish of the day that meals nourishes the physique and brings individuals collectively.”

Nonetheless, queerness is an affect, even when the aim was to not create a Capital-Q queer farm. Hennessy recollects how, when he was studying to farm, all of the land grant group courses had been run by large agricultural firms, promoting a really particular, business manner of manufacturing meat and produce, which was by no means what he needed to do. On Moxie Ridge’s web site, Hennessy outlines the “behavior-based animal administration fashion” he developed, which eschews mechanized land administration strategies. “I might make a case that I’m extra of a farmer than this dude that’s doing excessive confinement pig stuff and promoting it wholesale or one thing at public sale,” he mentioned. However rethinking how farming can look, he mentioned, perhaps arises from his queerness. “I feel what we see with queer individuals farming is that they’re already snug working outdoors the norm,” he mentioned. Basically, for those who’re already thought of, at finest, completely different from and, at worst, unacceptable to mainstream society, it’s simpler to say “fuck it” and do your personal factor. “That’s an expertise that individuals that don’t must undergo being an outsider don’t come to as naturally,” mentioned Hennessy. “It’s perhaps not a pure realization, however they don’t arrive there.”


After all, many queer individuals solely turn into snug working outdoors the norm as a result of they’re compelled to. Queerness in America, sadly, can not but be uncoupled from wrestle. Queer individuals are discriminated towards in seemingly countless methods, whether or not it’s current legislative makes an attempt to deny trans people access to necessary medical care, dying and violence at the hands of police, dozens of types of discrimination that result in queer individuals being extra apprehensive about taking part in public life, and queer youth being more at risk for self-harm. Determining how one can dwell, work, and thrive when lots of the norms of life will not be obtainable to you turns into a should.

For a lot of queer individuals, an antidote to the onslaught of discrimination is to hunt out queer group, which frequently coalesces in cities. The federal census and the USDA Census of Agriculture additionally don’t embody questions on sexual orientation or gender id, so we are able to’t observe simply what number of queer farmers there are. Meaning, regardless of an extended historical past of rural, food-producing queerness, it turns into simple to imagine that queerness is incompatible with rural life. “Rural communities have at all times been residence to LGBTQ+ individuals of shade, however their lives and their wants are sometimes unexamined or neglected,” Logan Casey, senior coverage researcher and advisor on the Movement Advancement Project, told Civil Eats earlier this yr. The statistics that do exist additionally present a lot farming within the U.S. is extremely heteronormative. There are about 3 times as many male farmers as there are feminine, with most girls turning into farmers by marrying a male farmer, or by inheriting land from her father. This tradition makes it even more durable for queer individuals looking for to get entangled in farming in agricultural work to know the place to begin, and for these already concerned to hunt group.

There are struggles for anybody seeking to open an impartial farm. Practically everybody I interviewed introduced up the problem of entry to land and capital, with larger agricultural firms, or simply wealthy individuals, shopping for up all of the land. Land possession is overwhelmingly white; Black farmers misplaced 36 million acres of their land between 1920 and 1978 to racist insurance policies, systemic discrimination, and violence, and nonetheless wrestle to obtain help in each private and non-private sectors. And capital tends to be even more durable to return by for those who’re queer; although there are variations inside the group, the Williams Institute found that LGBT individuals collectively have a 21.6 p.c poverty charge, whereas the speed for cisgender straight individuals is 15.7 p.c. “Land entry and the capital to really construct, to have the ability to keep in your land is totally essential to having a extra diversified and equitable farming group,” mentioned Roell. And the helps for beginning a farm are typically geared towards individuals desirous to mass-produce meals and feed on business farms, not individuals constructing smaller, sustainable farms. “I wish to see extra alternatives for impartial farms to have simpler entry to help that’s presently geared towards giant operations,” mentioned Skeeba. “The worth of small impartial farms is neglected.”

The farmers interviewed additionally detailed some extra particular problems with balancing being outspoken about their queerness whereas additionally attempting to stay relatable to white, conservative clients. Roell finds themself being overly pleasant to their neighbors in rural areas, and is hyper conscious that if “of us see you working land and dealing your butt off day-after-day at a guide labor job, they’ve a whole lot of respect for you.” Hennessy recollects talking to his farming group about countering Trump indicators within the space by hanging up rainbow flags and Black Lives Matter indicators, and worrying about being focused if he did. “I’ve to do completely different work due to what I understand as my security,” he mentioned.

However Hennessy additionally spoke of how farming helped him come to a deeper understanding of his id. The identical factor occurred for Roell, who discovered new language by watching the relationships bees construct in a hive. Rising up in a conservative household, they mentioned they shaped the concept their id was inherently a burden. However “to dwell round organic methods which are advanced and nuanced, and never that simply understood, and in addition so layered in what their gender and sexuality and reproductive construction is [was] to discover a degree of acceptance of self that wasn’t accessible for me in a human-to-human connection,” they mentioned. They noticed, in nature, that different buildings and relationships had been doable. “There was this chance to see one thing extra advanced than myself and perceive, oh yeah, we’re all really these actually multilayered beings.”

There’s additionally group to be discovered, and constructed. By means of organizations just like the Queer Farmer Network, Out in the Open, and Not Our Farm, queer farmers have been connecting and sharing sources. They’re engaged on creating extra worker-owned farms that may be handed down by generations with out debt. They’re studying abilities from one another. They’re assembly and constructing relationships, even throughout the pandemic, once they couldn’t meet in individual. Which, for some, has made it even simpler to attach. “It’s nice to have these reminders that we’re not alone on this, or our expertise isn’t completely singled out right here,” mentioned Hankins, who mentioned that as a result of they handle livestock yr spherical, it’s tough to attend the Queer Farmer Community’s yearly convergences. “We are able to attend so many extra completely different conferences or workshops, and simply sit there on-line now. It’s one thing that has made me really feel extra included.”

The “discovered household” is a trademark of the queer expertise, to the purpose the place referring to it may really feel a bit of corny. For people who find themselves extra prone to be estranged or forcefully disconnected from their household of origin, discovered household means not simply group and friendship, however a community that gives the care, sources, and help that the phrase “household” evokes. For Ullauri, engaged on a queer-centered farm means “increasing what a household farm is.” If most farms within the U.S. are inherited or obtained by marriage, queer farming means making use of non-mainstream concepts of who counts as household to the mission of farming. “We are able to have so many kinds of households, and they are often organized in very other ways,” they mentioned.

No matter how the farm seems, what or how a lot it produces, or if the farmer even owns the land, the aim for therefore many queer farmers is to let different queer individuals know that this life is on the market, in order for you it. And that it’s one value pursuing. “I actually have a powerful, deep need to be that mentor that I really feel like I wanted after I was rising up right here,” mentioned Pesek. “It appears essential to me to be out: out in the neighborhood, out in my enterprise, out in all the methods, simply to be that visibility for folks.”

It’s all too simple to color a story of strife in terms of farming and dwelling a rural life as a queer individual. However that assumption is what so many queer farmers try to problem, to not simply construct extra queer group in farming, however to point out queer folks that it’s doable to dwell and thrive on a farm proper now. “I feel a whole lot of queer individuals are like, ‘Oh my gosh, it’s so harmful,’” mentioned Hennessy. “And security actually is a factor, but it surely makes me unhappy that individuals really feel like they don’t seem to be entitled to a life outdoors of the historic queer expertise. You’re entitled to this life, and also you’re entitled to security on this life, and you’re entitled to see different individuals dwelling it with out consistently being bombarded with overcoming adversity tales.”

Marylu E. Herrera is a Chicago-based collage artist.

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