Pillowy, golden-brown, and soaked with olive oil, focaccia provides a shiny, substantial meal all by itself. The dimpled Italian flatbread, wealthy sufficient to be eaten plain however usually present in a pizza-adjacent type with tomatoes and cheese or no matter produce is is in season, has been proliferating at quite a few D.C. eating places, markets, and bakeries since earlier than the pandemic started. Distinctive squares have appeared at rustic Italian all-day cafe Piccolina and beloved Mediterranean lunch counter Green Almond Pantry (at present on hiatus pending a transfer). Excessive-end full-service kitchens like Tail Up Goat, Lutèce, and Modena have workshopped their very own variations. Focaccia works nicely as a takeout merchandise, and it’s additionally gained recognition with home bakers throughout lockdown, second solely to sourdough. Right here’s every part you should find out about discovering focaccia across the District.
What Is Focaccia?
Jim Lahey, the 2015 recipient of the James Beard Basis’s Excellent Baker award, gives a useful baseline for focaccia in his e-book My Bread. “Focaccia and pizza are shut cousins,” Lahey writes, “however focaccia is lighter and thicker, about 1½ inches, fairly than dense and skinny.”
Derived from the Italian “focolare,” which means hearth or fireplace, focaccia started within the historic Roman and Greek empires as a lowly check bread. To gauge the temperature of their wood-fired ovens, bakers would tear off a little bit of dough, coat it with olive oil, and bake it.
Focaccia dough has a excessive moisture content material relative to different breads. This implies the slack, sticky dough — suppose The Blob, however scrumptious — rises rapidly with energetic fermentation. Cagla Onal-Urel, chef and proprietor of (quickly closed) Inexperienced Almond Pantry, calls the pillowy, bubbly dough “good and pleased.”
As soon as the focaccia dough has reached that stage, it will get turned out onto a sheet pan coated with olive oil and topped with extra olive oil, salt, and perhaps some herbs or greens. Whereas it’s baking, the water within the dough causes steam. This creates massive air pockets, which leads to a hole-filled, open construction. After baking, cooks would possibly apply last garnishes like a sprinkle of grated cheese, flaky salt, or recent herbs that will in any other case burn within the oven. A profitable focaccia is browned on the surface; chewy, gentle, and moist on the within; and coated with simply sufficient olive oil and toppings to make it fascinating.
Amy Brandwein, a four-time Beard Award finalist and proprietor of upscale Italian restaurant Centrolina and all-day offshoot Piccolina, says good focaccia should be plump however not heavy — and should not skimp on olive oil.
“Some focaccia might be dense or has a tough crust. Focaccia needs to be fluffy and bouncy and with massive air pockets,” she says. “One other attribute is that it needs to be a bit greasy. … For those who don’t should wipe your fingers whereas consuming it, I don’t find out about that one.”
Why Focaccia Is Showing on Menus Throughout D.C.
All meals companies, from eating places to grocers, must juggle prices, prep time, diploma of issue, and high quality of product. Placing focaccia on a menu balances all 4 issues. The flatbread can also be the product of a reasonably forgiving dough, requiring much less exact kneading, shaping, and fermentation than baguettes or crusty levain boules.
In the course of the COVID-19 disaster, focaccia has benefitted from having all of the traits of dishes that promote nicely: It’s comforting, it’s handheld, it travels nicely, and — resulting from its similarity to pizza — tastes acquainted to clients.
“We would have liked one thing extra sensible, and it’s good and filling, with good substances, with every part we like,” says Inexperienced Almond Pantry’s Onal-Urel, referring to the focaccia she usually topped with recent, seasonal produce like eggplant, candy potatoes, and squash.
At Sonny’s Pizza and Doubles, the sq., grandma-style pizza store and sibling cafe in Park View, chef and co-owner Ben Heller says his sesame-topped focaccia is solely “an excellent, versatile bread that we actually wish to eat.”
The place to Discover Nice Focaccia in D.C.
Chef Amy Brandwein’s Piccolina is a necessary all-day spot for rustic, wood-fired Italian fare like many-layered eggplant Parm and braised meatballs. However the focaccia is among the many metropolis’s greatest, due to her skilled approach and a 24-hour fermentation course of that develops the dough’s taste.
Piccolina at present provides two glorious focaccia varieties. The pomodoro comes topped with tomato sauce, tomatoes, caciocavallo cheese, mushrooms, recent basil, and mozzarella. The opposite has tomato sauce and spicy soppressata, plus caciocavallo, basil, and mozzarella.
Examine the menu usually for seasonal focaccia. Brandwein additionally sometimes provides her particular focaccia Recco, through which stracchino and Parmigiano cheeses are positioned between two paper-thin unleavened dough rounds, then baked till the cheese oozes from air holes within the high.
“It is without doubt one of the most scrumptious stuff you’ve ever had,” Brandwein says.
963 Palmer Alley NW
Inexperienced Almond Pantry
Inexperienced Almond Pantry shuttered its Shaw market after the tiny eatery suffered a hearth in late December. Proprietor Cagla Onal-Urel is engaged on relocating to a brand new Georgetown location, the place she hopefully will as soon as once more supply her signature fluffy focaccia slab topped with tomato and onion, along with a seasonal providing.
This Shaw bakery has a cult following for its devoted follow of processing grain by way of its personal stone mill, providing a weekly pizza evening, and producing a darkish hue on its whole-grain pastries. Seylou’s focaccia has the usual brown, crusty exterior and chewy inside, however with a definitive spin.
Along with lining the sheet pans with native butter as a substitute of olive oil, the entire wheat focaccia “is leavened with each a pure sourdough starter and a small proportion of business yeast,” proprietor Jonathan Bethony says. The sourdough starter provides it a selected tang. Two kinds of native, natural flour which are milled in-house go into the dough.
Bethony thinks his focaccia is nice as a result of “it ties into the deeper factor that we do right here, which is use actually high-quality substances. Even the oil is thru a Greek household firm from Pennsylvania: Dimitri up in Baltimore. … It’s all entire grain. It’s wholesome.”
Seylou’s rosemary and sea salt “focassia” is obtainable on Sundays.
926 N Avenue NW, Suite A
Daniele Catalani has a method with dough. Whether or not it’s rolling recent pasta for Cucina Al Volo, making light bomboloni doughnuts filled with a plethora of lotions and curds, or getting ready spherical focaccia for his market in Mt. Vernon Triangle, the Italian chef enjoys the early-morning work of taking part in with flour and fermentation instances. His focaccia undergoes a four-day course of that begins out with 6-ounce balls of pizza dough. Relying on the day, there could also be three flavors or as many as seven. Prospects could discover focaccia topped with cherry tomato and crimson onion, zucchini and thyme, sausage and potato, or mozzarella, Parmesan, and garlic confit.
414 Ok Avenue NW
Bakeries aren’t the one robust focaccia sport on the town. Over in Park View, Sonny’s Pizza and Doubles serve a sesame-crusted focaccia with all of Sonny’s cheese-smothered crimson sauce sandwiches and meatballs.
“I grew up consuming cold-cut sandwiches on sesame hoagie rolls,” chef and co-owner Ben Heller says. “So I wished to do one thing impressed by that, however a bit bit completely different.”
The “pizza backyard” behind Doubles and Sonny’s is open for particular person focaccia squares, in addition to espresso, pastries, and bagels.
3120 Georgia Avenue NW
Together with its entire loaves, this charming neighborhood bakery and café in Mt. Nice serves a wonderful focaccia. As a result of Ellē likes to layer its focaccia with recent, seasonal toppings, the bread was on maintain over the winter. As a substitute, diners have been capable of get pleasure from a thick, grandma-style pizza slice. However proprietor Nick Pimentel says focaccia is making a comeback in late spring and might be accessible Thursday by way of Sunday, beginning round 11:30 a.m.
3221 Mt Nice Avenue NW
A Baked Joint
This Mount Vernon Triangle bakery, an offshoot of Georgetown go-to Baked & Wired, serves two flavors of focaccia yr spherical: a caramelized onion and goat cheese, and a cherry tomato and herb — each of which are likely to promote out by round 1 p.m. There are additionally occasional specials like chipotle potato. A large slab prices an affordable $5.95, and bite-size strips value round a greenback. Focaccia is obtainable for pickup or supply, and the store is at present open from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. most days and till 2 p.m. on Mondays and Tuesdays.
430 Ok Avenue NW
By way of Umbria in higher Georgetown has advanced right into a everlasting Officina pop-up the place clients can get pleasure from a round, individual-size focaccia Barese with burst cherry tomatoes and olive for $5.
1525 Wisconsin Avenue NW
4434 Connecticut Avenue NW
Fancy Eating Rooms
At Modena (1100 New York Avenue NW), chef John Melfi considers focaccia one in every of his signature gadgets. Like at Fiola Mare (3050 Ok Avenue NW, Suite 101), Modena contains focaccia as a bread course with each dine-in and takeaway meals. Melfi’s begins with a household recipe and makes use of a mix of Caputo flour and a flour floor on-site utilizing wheat sourced from Subsequent Step Produce in Charles County, Maryland. It ferments with recent yeast for a couple of hours and after baking will get garnished with further virgin olive oil, sea salt, and Parmesan that’s aged for at the very least 24 months.
Lyle’s, the stylish New American restaurant contained in the just lately opened Lyle resort (1731 New Hampshire Ave NW), provides a bread course of focaccia, too. Chef Nicholas Sharpe says he makes use of a starter gifted from a colleague that’s purportedly 100 years outdated to make a poolish, which then cold-ferments for as much as 72 hours and, on the day of baking, proofs for as much as 4 hours at 90 levels.
Iron Gate (1734 N Avenue NW) at present serves a dine-in home focaccia with Meyer lemon, crimson onion, kalamata olives, and feta. Chef Anthony Chittum additionally provides two focaccia-style pizzas for takeout: a Greek pizza with lemon-roasted hen, olives, tomato, dill, feta, and yogurt inexperienced goddess and one known as “The Grinder,” with Italian cured meats, provolone, pepperoncini, and cherry tomato pomodoro.
The menu at Georgetown’s fashionable Lutèce (1522 Wisconsin Avenue NW) at all times features a pillowy focaccia, served with basil oil and cultured butter made in-house.
Naturally leavened with a sourdough starter named — for causes unknown — “Steven” (many cooks and residential bakers title their sourdough starters), chef Matt Conroy adapts his focaccia seasonally. Heads-up to spring diners: Conroy began topping his focaccia with sautéed ramps now that they’re (briefly) in season.
Further reporting by Gabe Hiatt and Tierney Plumb